You’re at a whip practice and inadvertently leave your whip bag on the ground. Some very inattentive person comes walking up, doesn’t see your bag lying there, and steps right on it. Simultaneously, you hear a loud “crack,” but it doesn’t come from the popper of the Noreast nylon bullwhip you were just volleying, rather, it comes from inside your whip bag, from a toheti cane handle snapping in two like an old crusty chopstick. You resist the urge to yell at the idiot who just stepped on your bag, but you also want to kick yourself for being foolish enough to leave the bag lying on the ground in the first place. You regret not opting for a fiberglass handle on your nylon stockwhip. When you get home, you promptly fire off an angry email to that Rhett Kelley guy who made the whip…
This humorous, very exaggerated scenario demonstrates what I’ve read online about toheti cane whip handles becoming brittle over time and breaking if tread upon inside of a whip bag. What I want to do is examine the claims I’ve seen on the web that stockwhip handles made of toheti are prone to breakage. To be specific, I want to look at the probability of breakage with half plaited, unskinned cane handle. Now as a matter of personal opinion, I’ve always liked the looks of a half-plait cane handle whip and I believe they make an excellent handle for a stockwhip. However, this is not a discussion of what’s “best” or the most aesthetically pleasing. Such discussions are subjective, based largely on personal opinion, and of no real value to me.
I’ll be the first to admit that I do have a dog in this fight. I use a variety of materials on for my stockwhip handles, but cane is my favorite and seems to be preferred my diverse customer base. In the age of the internet, people do lots of research and form opinions based upon what they read. In light of some of the claims out there, some may shy away from my half-plait cane handles as a result of reading that cane can become brittle and break if it is tread upon.
When I started making stockwhips, it wasn’t long before I got some cane to use. I didn’t know what to expect before I got it, but I had read that compared to hardwood, toheti cane was preferred by Aussie stockmen because it was less apt to break, splinter, and injure a rider if he/she fell from a horse onto the handle of the whip.
Cane Cross Section
When my first cane shipment arrived, I was amazed at how light and durable it seemed. Sometimes the cane needs to be straightened a bit, and again, I was amazed at how even when place it over my knee and applied all the pressure I could muster, it would not break! It reminded me somewhat of one of those black plastic combs we carried in our back pocket in grade school. A look here at the cross section reveals that the cane is nothing like either bamboo or hardwood. In my estimation, this is what makes it so tough and flexible.
Before writing this article, I contacted and consulted with a number of my whipmaking friends Down Under. Having just over a year’s experience using the material, I didn’t want to make claims about anything based off of my limited experience alone. Each agreed that perhaps a shaved down, full plait cane handle might be subject to break if not steel lined, but that the chances of an unskinned, half-plait cane breaking from someone stepping on it is virtually nill.
One of my Aussie friends -who is a renowned whipmaker with decades of experience- tells me that only on extremely rare occasions has he seen a piece of toheti cane that would break easily. He theorizes that it was probably as a result of someone harvesting an already dead piece of cane and putting it into a bundle. No doubt, this can probably happen from time to time, but any alert whipmaker with a pulse could probably spot it and cull it out before making a handle from it. He also told me that he recently had a redhide stockwhip come in for repairs; he made the whip over 25 years ago and the handle “was still as good as new.”
I did a bit of experimenting with a very thin and very ugly piece of cane that I culled out of a shipment I received about a year ago. This piece has been left out under the shed and exposed to the elements in ways I hope my whips never are. I put it through a series of tests and got my son to catch the clips on video. I hope this demonstrates that there’s not much to worry about as far as breakage when you buy an unskinned, half-plait cane handle:
Before I begin accepting orders again, I want to post a brief explanation of my new price schedule.
For years I have tried to be somewhat of a “low price leader” among nylon whipmakers. (I guess working for Walmart Logistics for 14+ years has had an effect on my business philosophy.) While my prices have crept up some over the past 9 years, a survey of other whipmaker’s websites recently showed me that have been charging far less than some of my competitors on comparable whips. Things have even gotten to the point where some of my customers have suggested that I am not charging enough for my whips.
Keeping my whips affordable for my cowboy clientele is still very important to me. I have always tried to keep my cow whip prices within an acceptable range for them. This concern has been the main thing that kept me from raising my prices already. While the price of my whips in the “sport cracking” category are a good bit higher, my new prices are relatively the same for the whips most commonly ordered by cowboys from Florida (12ft and 14ft cow whips).
For example: With the new schedule, my 12ft cow whips are only $12.00 more. 14ft cow whips are only $4.00 more… However, these prices are now a much better value than in the past because they now include a choice of several exotic and laminate handles! No more paying extra for a fine exotic handle unless it’s one of the very expensive African species.
Another change is that my bullwhip price schedule now groups woody bulls and regular bulls together. As with the cow whips, there is no additional charge for an exotic handle on a bullwhip unless an expensive African species (white and black ebony, blackwood, or gaboon ebony for example).
If it seems I am being greedy or that my price increases are too steep, I would like to recommend the following article by Steve Huntress. I think he makes some great points on why a quality nylon whip doesn’t always have to be dirt cheap:
I am pleased to announce that I am now making nylon hunting whips! This is in response to the requests I have gotten for them over the last 3 years. At present, my nylon hunt whips aren’t exact copies of the traditional English whips, but over time I plan to work with the design for those who may want a synthetic hunting whip that’s more traditional in appearance. The whip shown here is a 6ft with grip made from water buffalo horn.
Here’s the latest stockwhip I’ve made… It is charcoal gray with imperial red highlights, 6ft long with a 20″ half plait handle made from authentic toheti cane from Australia. It really cracks nicely. It has been about a year since I started making stockwhips and they have become one of my favorite products to make and crack. This whip was made for a fellow whipmaker who lives in Louisiana.
Something I have been noticing over the last couple of years is really starting to bother me. I’m seeing novice whipmakers on the web and on eBay trying to peddle whips that look like garbage all while proclaiming themselves to be “master whipmakers.”
I’ve been making nylon whips for the better part of 20 years now and I still won’t assign to myself the title of master whipmaker. Why? Because I am always learning! I haven’t mastered all there is to know about whipmaking, so why give myself that title? If others want to call me an artist or a master, I am okay with that: people are entitled to their opinion of me, good or bad. All I do is make the best whip that I know how to make.
Frankly, I believe it is dishonest for a person to self-assign himself the title of master while turning out a product that looks like it was made by a beginner. I’ve seen some of these self-proclaimed masters turn out whips with horrible tapers, lumpy thongs, jacked-up looking turksheads, and big gaps in the plaiting. These are mistakes of a novice, not the work of a master whipmaker.
Here’s a tip for you, something you can apply to crafts of all kinds: A master won’t have to tell you he’s a master, his work and reputation will speak for itself. Some of the most talented craftsmen I know -true masters- are the most humble people I’ve ever met. They’re awesome at what they do, but their ego is not over-inflated. When you look at their work, you can see it was made by someone who knows well their respective craft; they don’t have to say a word. So when you come across a self-proclaimed master -buyer beware!
As 2009 now comes to a close, we witness the passing of what will be remembered as a tough year for lots of people. But even in a difficult economy, I’ve seen that people continue to buy whips; thus 2009 was a great year for my business. I had many wonderful customers who provided me with plenty of whip orders to fill even when the hours at my job were lacking. In this final post of the year, I would like to highlight some accomplishments and say thanks.
Saw all-time record ordering volume in April and July.
Redesigned the bellies and fall hitches on my bullwhips.
Successfully entered the nylon Indiana Jones bullwhip market.
Started this blog!
Added new options for cow whip handles: Stratabond and exotic woods
Affiliated with the Whip Basics Project: WBSR Whipmaking Team and DVD distribution.
Began making deer leather and experimenting with leather work.
Resurrected my line of wood handled bullwhips.
Saw my son begin his journey as a whipmaker.
Made lots of new friends!
As you can see, 2009 was a busy year. I’m looking forward to what 2010 has in store. I appreciate all the customers who helped make it possible. Thank you so much! You’re the best!
This is a sort of follow up article to my earlier posts entitled The Development of the Kelley Nylon Bullwhip and Mo’ Guts = Mo’ Better. I want to highlight that the Kelley line of nylon bullwhips has undergone some changes in 2009; changes that I hope people will find to be an improvement on my design. I highlighted the internal improvements in Mo’ Guts = Mo’ Better, but in this post I want to highlight one of the external changes I have made.
My earlier bullwhips featured the tapering twist that is common to Florida cow whips. This can be seen on some of the remaining bullwhip pics I have at cowwhips.com. Being a maker of cow whips, when I started making bullwhips I kept this method because it was familiar to me and I didn’t feel the need to change it at the time. (You will notice that Krist King’s bullwhips also have a tapering twist and not a fall hitch.)
When I started making nylon stockwhipsback in February, I wanted to make them as traditional looking as possible so I went with the fall hitch design. After I finished that first stockwhip, I figured it wouldn’t hurt to start doing the fall hitch on the bullwhips and snakewhips as well. Since March, Florida cow whips are the only whips I make that feature the twisted tail. At this time I am slowly replacing the older bullwhip and snakewhip pictures on cowwhips.com to reflect this change.
For those who liked the older design, do not despair, I will gladly make bullwhips, snakewhips, or stockwhips with the twist of the customer prefers it. So far the new change has been received well. And while I haven’t done it so far, if someone wanted a cow whip with a fall hitch, I don’t have any problems with doing that.
As a whipmaker, I find that even though I’ve been plaiting over 18 years, I never stop learning. One thing I hope to accomplish with these and future improvements is to add value to my products. I have always made it my goal to provide top quality nylon whips at prices that are hard to beat. Speaking of hard to beat prices, be sure to check out my July Bullwhip Sale if you haven’t done so already!
The coral snake pattern has been one of my most popular patterns for cow whips. Back in April, a lady placed an order for a 4ft Australian stockwhip with that same pattern. At first I didn’t make any guarantees on if I could do it on a stockwhip.
With stockwhips, the keeper is a flat 6 plait that is changed to a round 12 plait to make the thong. This makes the pattern somewhat unpredictable until you actually lay it out and start plaiting. I knew every plait had to be in just the right place to make this happen. The good news is that I was able to make the pattern and it resulted in one of the finest nylon stockwhips I have made to date.
Here’s the whole thing:
Here’s the the keeper. My first couple of attempts at making stockwhip keepers left a lot to be desired. I am indebted to Tony Layzell for giving me some pointers this part; he actually took the initiative to get in touch with me to help. Not many plaiters will do that. Unbeknownst to me, Tony had pretty much perfected the nylon stockwhip before I started developing my own. So while I hate to look like a copy-cat, I also recognize when it makes no sense to reinvent the wheel.
The plaited handle is made of light weight toheti cane and covered with a 16 plait. I decided to go with 2-tone turkshead knots to dress it up a bit.
Here’s the 7 part, 6 bight turkshead up close. This is the first whip I’ve made with this particular knot. I put a “12 gauge” concho on the end just for fun.
To order one of my nylon Australian stockwhips, visit my order page or email me @ Rhettswhips@yahoo.com for more information.